The vinyl anchors for my Mohawk thigh retainer are pulling loose. These are integral with the retainer belt, so I will need to re-glue them rather than replace them.
Anyone have experience re-gluing anchors on a Royalex boat with Vyna Bond? Does it work? Or should I use some of my G-Flex instead?
Re-gluing vinyl anchors
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ohioboater
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sbroam
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I've sanded and reglued thigh strap anchors with Vynabond. I've also used "Goop" as an experiment to reglue non-critical (i.e. air bag, not thigh strap) anchors and they have held. [I used Goop to put in thigh strap anchors in my Zephyr - >1 year later they are still good...]
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Re-gluing vinyl D rings
VynaBond has worked well for me. I have had luck doing it this way:
1. Trace around the patch to mark the area for sanding & gluing. I put a couple tick marks across the edge of the patch onto the hull to help me line it up again when gluing.
2. sand the vinyl patch and the outlined area on the hull until dull. No shiny places. be sure to remove old glue when doing a repair.
3. Clean both surfaces with lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol.
4. Apply at least 2 very even, thin coats to each surface, allowing each coat to dry about 20 minutes before next coat is applied.
5. Once last coat is dry, use a heat gun to warm the hull and the patch. Just warm - you don't want to see the glue layers blistering up.
6. Line up patch and press in place. Smooth out and rub with a round object such as the handle of a screwdriver.
Also better to do this in temps between about 60 and 85, with low humidity. Gloves and a respirator are a good idea.
1. Trace around the patch to mark the area for sanding & gluing. I put a couple tick marks across the edge of the patch onto the hull to help me line it up again when gluing.
2. sand the vinyl patch and the outlined area on the hull until dull. No shiny places. be sure to remove old glue when doing a repair.
3. Clean both surfaces with lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol.
4. Apply at least 2 very even, thin coats to each surface, allowing each coat to dry about 20 minutes before next coat is applied.
5. Once last coat is dry, use a heat gun to warm the hull and the patch. Just warm - you don't want to see the glue layers blistering up.
6. Line up patch and press in place. Smooth out and rub with a round object such as the handle of a screwdriver.
Also better to do this in temps between about 60 and 85, with low humidity. Gloves and a respirator are a good idea.
Re: Re-gluing vinyl anchors
I've actually taken vinyl patch d-rings out of my worn out ABS boats and re-used the same vinyl patch d-ring... sometimes several times. A little careful heat and gentle coercing- they peel right up with no damage. Some fresh vinyl adhesive, heat, re-apply. I've taken several out of boats before I've sold them... they ain't cheap nowdays.
JD
I too have removed and reused vinyl patches on Royalex boats many times.
I use Vinyl adhesive (Vynabond) since it allows a much greater likelihood of allowing the patch to be removed without stripping the inner vinyl layer of the Royalex than with epoxy. It is generally possible to remove the glue residue as well using acetone or MEK.
I would be careful sanding any vinyl patches with stitching penetrating the patch. It is quite possible to sand through the threads. I have done this and it does result in the D-ring (or whatever is sewn to the patch) to come off over time.
I clean the used patch with acetone or MEK. I do remove any dirt but I have not found it necessary to remove all traces of the prior application of Vynabond. I use only one coat of adhesive on the hull and the patch, but I do warm the hull and patch with a heat gun before placing the patch. If you do much outfitting go to the hardware store and buy an inexpensive tile roller. They are very useful for gluing in patches and getting a good bond.
I used to lightly sand the hull to which the patch was to be applied with 100 grit paper. Now I just clean it with acetone or MEK. I haven't noticed any difference in results.
If the patch stripped away any significant amount of the inner vinyl layer of the Royalex, you need to remove this from the patch and use either G-flex or Stabond to reglue it to the denuded hull.
I use Vinyl adhesive (Vynabond) since it allows a much greater likelihood of allowing the patch to be removed without stripping the inner vinyl layer of the Royalex than with epoxy. It is generally possible to remove the glue residue as well using acetone or MEK.
I would be careful sanding any vinyl patches with stitching penetrating the patch. It is quite possible to sand through the threads. I have done this and it does result in the D-ring (or whatever is sewn to the patch) to come off over time.
I clean the used patch with acetone or MEK. I do remove any dirt but I have not found it necessary to remove all traces of the prior application of Vynabond. I use only one coat of adhesive on the hull and the patch, but I do warm the hull and patch with a heat gun before placing the patch. If you do much outfitting go to the hardware store and buy an inexpensive tile roller. They are very useful for gluing in patches and getting a good bond.
I used to lightly sand the hull to which the patch was to be applied with 100 grit paper. Now I just clean it with acetone or MEK. I haven't noticed any difference in results.
If the patch stripped away any significant amount of the inner vinyl layer of the Royalex, you need to remove this from the patch and use either G-flex or Stabond to reglue it to the denuded hull.
I never had any luck eitherShep wrote:I have never had luck with vynabond, or mondobond, or any other ___bond on thigh straps. I vote G-Flex!!!
Shep
I eventually got my Mohawk thigh retainer to really adhear using Permatex PlastiWeld epoxy. I was having issues in the middle of the fall rainy season and didn't want to wait for GFlex by mail-order.
I think if I still had that boat I'd make new 12"x12" vinyl patches for both sides of the thigh belt. That way it would have more contact area and lots of contact on "virgin" royalex.
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ohioboater
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I've had mixed results myself, which is why I asked. I've had some Vina Bonded anchors hold for 8 years and counting, while others peeled off within days. Granted, the latter were installed outdoors on a very humid/foggy day, so maybe that was the issue. I re-did those with G-Flex, and they have been bombproof.Shep wrote:I have never had luck with vynabond, or mondobond, or any other ___bond on thigh straps. I vote G-Flex!!!
Shep
Just have to decide what's more important - permanence or the ability to remove the outfitting non-destructively if I wear this boat out or decide to replace it with a higher performance design...
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markzak
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I've started using G-flex for all anchors and attaching anything that will have to hold well for both Royalex and Plastic.
The stuff is bomber. Put away your weldwood and Vynabond and just use gflex. I've even applied gflex in a hurry to a wet boat and it still held great (not recommended).
Gflex, gflex, gflex, gflex ... ADHESIVE!
P.S. You can also remove anchors attached with Gflex with a hairdyer.
The stuff is bomber. Put away your weldwood and Vynabond and just use gflex. I've even applied gflex in a hurry to a wet boat and it still held great (not recommended).
Gflex, gflex, gflex, gflex ... ADHESIVE!
P.S. You can also remove anchors attached with Gflex with a hairdyer.
I've had Vynabonded patches and Dagger blocks fail, all at around 10 years of age...... Must be sunspots.
I've switched to G-flex for patches and Dagger blocks. Works great. Just remember that the patch is only as strong as the bond of the vinyl to the ABS in the Royalex. If that worries you, scrape off the vinyl before using G-flex to glue directly to the ABS.
I've switched to G-flex for patches and Dagger blocks. Works great. Just remember that the patch is only as strong as the bond of the vinyl to the ABS in the Royalex. If that worries you, scrape off the vinyl before using G-flex to glue directly to the ABS.