1> How many layers of clearcoat epoxy on the bottom of the boat do you guys think is enough?
2> I'm going to use epoxy with black pigment for the stripe that goes around the seam where the top and bottom of the bat are joined. In order to have nice clean lines what is the best kind of tape to use? I did a test section with regular painters tape and it looks like that the epoxy wants to seep through or go under the seal of that.
Thanks,
Marshall
Two more boat fixin questions...
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Jim Michaud
- CBoats Addict
- Posts: 318
- Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 3:24 am
- Location: Vernon, Connecticut
Regarding tape, one idea
Not on your list of questions, but a side thought: Depending on what you are doing, pulling the tape just after the job is done, while the epoxy is still wet, can be a good idea.
Cone Bone
randy@artisansgroup.com
randy@artisansgroup.com
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KNeal (work)
Hey, Marshall. What's up with putting black epoxy striping on your "bat"? 
It was good to see you on the river earlier this week. That day felt real good. I hope to see the end results of your Viper updates. Next, we'll have to run up to the Lower Yough with PAC and make a weekend of "Vipers" and river running.
KNeal
It was good to see you on the river earlier this week. That day felt real good. I hope to see the end results of your Viper updates. Next, we'll have to run up to the Lower Yough with PAC and make a weekend of "Vipers" and river running.
KNeal
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PAC (work)
...
As always you guys are welcome to come visit and stay at the shack so we can paddle the Lower Yough (and anything else running in the area). 
Besides I need to get some V time so I'm ready to Gauley it.
I havn't had much time in the Viper since the xxx has been so much fun. Also lower water (on the days when I can paddle) has keep me from taking it out since I'm afraid of the repair work I'm sure I would create!
So KNeal, Bernie, Eric, Warren, Joey, etc. will there be another Gualey get together? Any dates?
As for the tape - buy the good stuff (3M wide painters tape is what I have used). Pulling the tape when the mix has started to set up is a good thought too. However, pulling too early and it runs
to late and it gets embedded (doesn't come off clean if your a putts like me 
).
Paul C.
Besides I need to get some V time so I'm ready to Gauley it. I havn't had much time in the Viper since the xxx has been so much fun. Also lower water (on the days when I can paddle) has keep me from taking it out since I'm afraid of the repair work I'm sure I would create!
So KNeal, Bernie, Eric, Warren, Joey, etc. will there be another Gualey get together? Any dates?
As for the tape - buy the good stuff (3M wide painters tape is what I have used). Pulling the tape when the mix has started to set up is a good thought too. However, pulling too early and it runs
to late and it gets embedded (doesn't come off clean if your a putts like me ). Paul C.
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Home Builder
Question 1
I think none should about do it.
But if you insist on adding weight to your hull, do some reading on the stitch and glue boat forums. They, and the wood-strippers, use layers of epoxy over their glassed hulls. I think whatever number they suggest should be reduced by one or two, but remember, I don't think you should apply any layers at all!
Chesapeake Light Craft's website forum is a good place to start. So is this one:
http://www.kayakforum.com/index.shtml
I sure wish such internet resources were available when I was trying to learn how to do this stuff!
Question 2
I used fiberglass reinforced packing tape with a Saran Wrap skirt when applying seams with a thick black-striped epoxy outer layer. This style was popularized by the Friendsville crowd, and covered up the sometimes ragged nature of outside seams with an eye-appealing smooth layer of opaque resin. The technique was pure window dressing.
Get the high quality tape (3M is excellent) to make removal process clean and easy. Sometimes you have to score the "point of division" to get a clean pull after the resin has cured. Use a very sharp blade and your steadiest hand when doing this! You only need to score the resin, not penetrate it.
You are right, masking tape hasn't got enough thickness or strength for the job.
I think none should about do it.
But if you insist on adding weight to your hull, do some reading on the stitch and glue boat forums. They, and the wood-strippers, use layers of epoxy over their glassed hulls. I think whatever number they suggest should be reduced by one or two, but remember, I don't think you should apply any layers at all!
Chesapeake Light Craft's website forum is a good place to start. So is this one:
http://www.kayakforum.com/index.shtml
I sure wish such internet resources were available when I was trying to learn how to do this stuff!
Question 2
I used fiberglass reinforced packing tape with a Saran Wrap skirt when applying seams with a thick black-striped epoxy outer layer. This style was popularized by the Friendsville crowd, and covered up the sometimes ragged nature of outside seams with an eye-appealing smooth layer of opaque resin. The technique was pure window dressing.
Get the high quality tape (3M is excellent) to make removal process clean and easy. Sometimes you have to score the "point of division" to get a clean pull after the resin has cured. Use a very sharp blade and your steadiest hand when doing this! You only need to score the resin, not penetrate it.
You are right, masking tape hasn't got enough thickness or strength for the job.