detonator.. water deflector
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detonator.. water deflector
a long time ago, I saw these old guys with somekind of water shield in the front of their open boat, on the front deck plate. They said it was for reflecting the water out of the boat. Does anyone else have any means to keep the water out of their boat.
The reason why I asked because, I almost gave up paddling my detonator . Evrytime I go over a wave, the water just pour over the front deck. After a few waves, the boat is completely filled up with water. This is no fun and is quite dangerous. Sucks.
The reason why I asked because, I almost gave up paddling my detonator . Evrytime I go over a wave, the water just pour over the front deck. After a few waves, the boat is completely filled up with water. This is no fun and is quite dangerous. Sucks.
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- C Guru
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On my Phantom, I put a bow deck plate that covers most of the front air bag. It is 1/8" black ABS, the same stuff that the original deck plate is made of. A few inches forward of the 'cockpit' end of that, I glued on a v shaped minicell splashrail about 2 inches high. When that one falls off, I will go 3 inches; I don't think it will interfere with cross strokes.
Between that and my electric bilge pump, I am occasionally mistaken for a competant canoeist. For the record, there is something to be said for paddling a boat that's designed to be paddle-able with some water in it, but the Phantom definitely ain't in that category, and i suspect the Detonator might be something of a pig when it's full too.
Between that and my electric bilge pump, I am occasionally mistaken for a competant canoeist. For the record, there is something to be said for paddling a boat that's designed to be paddle-able with some water in it, but the Phantom definitely ain't in that category, and i suspect the Detonator might be something of a pig when it's full too.
style
For the bigger unavoidable waves, do no pencil into them. Try hitting them at a slight angel; this makes the boat look smaller to the wave. You can also try wave blocking. Last try shifting your weight back to lighten the bow. Keeping dry is the challenge of open boats. The last resort is to avoid the waves in the first place by crossing the grain and making that wicked eddy turn below the main chute beside the waves. As for anything you strap on to "deflect" the waves may cause problems with your roll or get tied up on stuff.
My opinion for what it is worth
Scott
My opinion for what it is worth
Scott
~~~\open side up/~~~
- Mike W.
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The boat that I borrowed to race a couple of years ago had both an extended bow deck with a mini-cell chevron to chanel the water off of the deck & ethafoam splash rails just under the gunnels. It doesn't keep huge amounts of water out, but it does help a little. Here's a photo:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/wh20crazy ... pg&.src=ph
This shot shows a boat with 2 sets of chevrons. You can see two streams of water coming off the deck, yet the bow paddler still got water in her lap.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/wh20crazy ... pg&.src=ph
You can get the ethafoam splash rails from J & J:
http://www.jjcanoe.com/prod_A.html
A cheaper alternative to the splash rails is pool noodles. Cut them in half length wise & glue them to the hull. You can get them in a variety of funky colors to match, or in this case NOT match your boat As you can see in this shot, we lost part of one when we got too close to a rock
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/wh20crazy ... pg&.src=ph
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/wh20crazy ... pg&.src=ph
This shot shows a boat with 2 sets of chevrons. You can see two streams of water coming off the deck, yet the bow paddler still got water in her lap.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/wh20crazy ... pg&.src=ph
You can get the ethafoam splash rails from J & J:
http://www.jjcanoe.com/prod_A.html
A cheaper alternative to the splash rails is pool noodles. Cut them in half length wise & glue them to the hull. You can get them in a variety of funky colors to match, or in this case NOT match your boat As you can see in this shot, we lost part of one when we got too close to a rock
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/wh20crazy ... pg&.src=ph
I like what Nolan used to do
He mounted rubber auto door moulding in a bit of a U patter at the bow to help shed water.
The moulding was about 1" high, but seemed like it really helped with much of the water that just creeps up.
I think working the angle of attack on the haystacks will make a world of difference for you, though. Also, as said above, wave blocking is a great skill to have.
Just curious, what's your weight? And what rivers are you typically paddling?
-David Nickerson
Esquif Canoes
Eastern U.S. Sales
david@baystatesound.com
The moulding was about 1" high, but seemed like it really helped with much of the water that just creeps up.
I think working the angle of attack on the haystacks will make a world of difference for you, though. Also, as said above, wave blocking is a great skill to have.
Just curious, what's your weight? And what rivers are you typically paddling?
-David Nickerson
Esquif Canoes
Eastern U.S. Sales
david@baystatesound.com
you're definitely not to heavy
for the Detonator. I top out at about 210#, and really enjoy the Detonator.
I'd say just working on lean and waveblocking should make the difference.
Let me know if I can answer any Esquif questions for you.
Best,
David
I'd say just working on lean and waveblocking should make the difference.
Let me know if I can answer any Esquif questions for you.
Best,
David
- the great gonzo
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Detonator and waves
Hi Nam
Sorry to hear you're having trouble with the boat. It does take some getting used to moving back to an OC after kayaks and the may reason is that big whole in the top. You simply can't take the same line you could in a kayak.
I found the Detonator resurfaced off drops pretty well and stayed pretty dry in the waves. Yep, you can get a fair bit of water in heading straight into big waves, but a little angle and/or some waveblocking works a charm in that thar beast. If you need help with it, try reading the section on waveblocking in Thrill of the Paddle - they've got some good suggestions. Oh, when waveblocking, be careful with the tilt - I've flipped a couple of times by being a bit over enthusiastic Glug. Oh well - needed the roll practise.
Eyeing the snow melt....
Matt
Sorry to hear you're having trouble with the boat. It does take some getting used to moving back to an OC after kayaks and the may reason is that big whole in the top. You simply can't take the same line you could in a kayak.
I found the Detonator resurfaced off drops pretty well and stayed pretty dry in the waves. Yep, you can get a fair bit of water in heading straight into big waves, but a little angle and/or some waveblocking works a charm in that thar beast. If you need help with it, try reading the section on waveblocking in Thrill of the Paddle - they've got some good suggestions. Oh, when waveblocking, be careful with the tilt - I've flipped a couple of times by being a bit over enthusiastic Glug. Oh well - needed the roll practise.
Eyeing the snow melt....
Matt
NZMatt
Hmmm....new country, new rivers...-
Still not enough c-boaters....
Hmmm....new country, new rivers...-
Still not enough c-boaters....
NZMatt
Hahaha:
I actually really liked the Detonator. It such a fun boat and a pig too. Yeah, after c1 , open boating can be a pain when it comes to boat filling up with water. But yeah, I am going to try to pull that boat out when the waether gets warmer here . Cant wait. Open boat is such a hoot. Thanks for a great boat. matt. Hope your work is going good
Nam
I actually really liked the Detonator. It such a fun boat and a pig too. Yeah, after c1 , open boating can be a pain when it comes to boat filling up with water. But yeah, I am going to try to pull that boat out when the waether gets warmer here . Cant wait. Open boat is such a hoot. Thanks for a great boat. matt. Hope your work is going good
Nam