Outfitting first ever C1...

philcanoe · Post by **philcanoe** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 7:09 pm

I'm outfitting my first ever creek C1, at least one that's not a slalom boat....

Using a Medium Fluid Solo...... and wanting to go max saddle height, at least to begin with. So how high do you believe someone can get away with mini-cell on back of a pedestal saddle? That part behind paddler. Meaning how far above the cockpit rim is it safe to go, before causing undue stress on a spray skirt. I'm borrowing a Snap Dragon K1 skirt at the moment, so it's a bit hard to tell. However it appears that 1 to 1.5 inches tapered to cockpit height - from like 6-to-8 inches away would be A0K....

...could I get away with it any higher?

As I'm guessing a little extra foam might help me not only stay braced/wedged in, but help with draining water?

Post by **PAC** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 7:30 pm

Phil generally my saddles are 8 to 9 inches high (saving my knees for later use and I'm a www*). I usually go 3 inches on the butt block (mini cell behind the rump) above the saddle to hold me in place as I flop about.

SO that said its a question of how deep the boat is and how far the skirt will stretch. Check where the waist tunnel is too since its placement will effect the ability of the skirt to stretch where you need it in terms of fit. If the tunnel is too far back go beg for another loaner.

I suggest after you outfit, wet the skirt and place it on the boat to get it to form out to your needs.

My $.01

* www- white water weenie!

Post by **sbroam** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 9:10 pm

I can measure when I get home, but in the gallery in the link in my sig, I have a Wave Sport Score with mint green foam. I'm guessing that is 3" or more above the cockpit rim and I have never had any problems with the skirt. Until my last skirt I always used an off the shelf kayak skirt. The latest is a Skirtworks with custom offset (for my Remix) and longer tunnel - still no problem (with the Score).

D-Caption · Post by **D-Caption** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 10:36 pm

Hey Phil

If yuo get a chance it would be nice for us noobs if you to post some pics of the work in progress and maybe a review on the new boat. I am planning on doing one myself.

thanks

D-Caption

Mike W. · Post by **Mike W.** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 11:54 pm

I just measured a couple of my boats. My backrests are 4 to 5" above the seat & 2 to 2.5" above the rim. Be sure to round off the corners so the skirt doesn't touch a hard corner. A random orbital sander works great for this. Round off the corners of the hip-pads too.

Larry Horne · Post by **Larry Horne** » Sat Jul 23, 2011 12:51 am

with a 9" saddle, you have yourself a sit-on top

Post by **sbroam** » Sat Jul 23, 2011 1:29 am

With a 9" saddle, I have a comfortable C-1. Only my seldom used slalom boat is noticeably lower...

philcanoe · Post by **philcanoe** » Sat Jul 23, 2011 3:37 am

.... so 10 is over the top???

D-Caption wrote:Hey Phil

If yuo get a chance it would be nice for us noobs if you to post some pics of the work in progress and maybe a review on the new boat. I am planning on doing one myself.

thanks

D-Caption

a better review ==> http://cboats.net/cforum/viewtopic.php?t=5490

And thanks for the measurements.

Stingray · Post by **Stingray** » Sat Jul 23, 2011 12:31 pm

Another idea would be to outfit the creek boat to fit your paddling style so your comfortable and you can be at your best performance when creeking and have a skirt custom made to fit.

philcanoe · Post by **philcanoe** » Sun Aug 07, 2011 11:05 pm

Status update ... on high saddle outfitting.

White pieces are fiberglass cut from a old jacuzzi, they are bomber, and gel-coat smooth.

Not sure if a bulkhead will be needed - just like Jan Dettmer said in a earlier post. Thigh hooks are simply duct-taped foam temporarily filling over factory kayak outfitting, at least until sure it's 0k to destroy (contact cement over) factory kayak outfitting. Have only used in very light current (neighborhood class-II) to test stability and roll in; however feel that might need to add a little something to keep knees spread. Not sure if it would be best to do this on inside of knees, or up on inside of thighs (any thoughts ?). If that's not enough, will chuck the knee hooks and build a small bulkhead.

Started outfitting on a section of 3" schedule 40 PVC pipe(super structure) just like a standard rail conversion. It's fitted into both walls, and glued into a channel cut into saddle. This really made whole saddle feel bomb proof top to bottom. Foot braces have been screwed together through pipe, and have no play at all. Rear of foot brace is (much) closer together, to lessen knee strain. Wasn't able to get feet to touch, but rear of Yakima's are down to 3" pipe.

Rear thwart will probably be used it to anchor (low) hip blocks off of eventually. Plus up under on each end (where u can't see) there is a 7/8" hole drilled thorough fiberglass to clip what-ever into.

Haven't cut saddle down very much yet (or sanded smooth) was 11"... is now 10". Stability has been way better than expected. Next will likely build up foam a little behind seated area, to help stay locked in once sure of exact balance point. Entry into is good and wet exit is almost like from a canoe. Believe it might be a comfortable steep creek setup, which was the intent of this project.

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Outfitting first ever C1...

Outfitting first ever C1...

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