Varnish/sealant for wooden t-grip?

[ohioboater]

I've owned my Bandit long enough that the finish is long gone from several spots on the laminated wooden t-grip. I figure I should sand it down and refinish it before water damage gets beyond repair. Is basic spar varnish ok for this? That's what the original finish feels like to my hand. I tried asking Werner what to use, but they said it's been so long since they made anything out of wood that no one remembered what they put on those t-grips. Gee thanks, guys. Way to make me feel old

[Mikey B]

Yep, spar varnish would be a good choice.

[sbroam]

I use teak oil - I prefer the feel to the slick finish of varnish.

[PAC]

SPAR Varnish is the way to go - my $.01!

[Sir Adam]

I'll second teak or other (BLO (boiled linseed oil, a favorite tool handle preserver)). Easier to maintain than varnish, and less likely to cause blisters too.

[ezwater]

Although I varnish or epoxy/varnish the blade and shaft of wooden paddles, I usually oil the grip. I use multiple coats of Minwax 209 until the grain of the wood is filled in. Then I use Minwax 209 (a clear oil) and 400 grit sandpaper to wet sand the surface. This leaves a satin finish with a bit of sheen. It is less likely to cause blisters than varnish.

When the surface starts to look oil-starved, more 209 can be applied.

It helps to start with hardwood that has average or better resistance to weathering or rot. Examples might be ash, elm, black locust, cherry, mahogany, or some kinds of oak.

[Pea Pod]

+1 for oil on the t-grip. I use linseed. Feels great in the hand, and easy to maintain.

[Mikey B]

I prefer oil on my grips too, but depending on the glue used in a laminated grip I'd opt for varnish. But if the laminates were glued up with epoxy I'd use oil...but most aren't glued that way.

[ohioboater]

Thanks, everyone. I have both spar varnish and tung oil in the shop. Probably will go with the varnish, since the original varnish lasted ~10 years, and I've never had issues with blisters.

[pblanc]

Werner may have used a linear polyurethane and dip finished the grip. Polyurethane will result in a finish similar in durability and appearance to varnish.

I have not experienced blisters on my grip hand either so I would go with polyurethane or varnish since it requires less attention. I have friends who use paddles with oiled grips and they do feel nice, but require periodic re-oiling, which might be necessary more frequently than you would like depending on use and exposure.

If you refinish with varnish you wouldn't necessarily have to sand the entire grip down to bare wood if there are areas where the existing varnish (or poly) is intact and un-checkered. Just sand those areas with 100-120 grit paper to rough the surface a little. Any areas where the wood is greyed need to be sanded down to non-discolored wood if you want a nice cosmetic appearance. For varnish you want at least three coats. Some anal-retentive types would apply 7 or 8 coats. Wet sand with fine waterproof sandpaper (e.g. 400 grit) between coats.

[drrpm]

I use marine polyurethane now. It dries faster than the spar varnish so you can get multiple coats on quicker. I haven't had a problem with blisters either.

[c1swim]

Never had a problem with blisters, but I always sand the varnish/poly off my T-grips.
Why have a fine wood grip that feels like slick, shiny plastic in your hand ?
I use teak oil. It feels like I have better control this way.
I also wrap an area of the shaft with bicycle tape for a better grip.

[mahyongg]

Another advantage of oil vs. varnish or polyurethane I'd like to mention is that if the surface is closed off completely with a sealant, water can get through small cracks or spots that chip off eventually (probably after the first paddle outing..) and not escape, rotting underneath the varnish. Oil instead impregnates the wood to a certain depth making it less likely to suck up any moisture, plus it can get out easier than with a complete watertight coating. That's the problem with PU finishing, it looks nice and is quite durable but once it's gone, the rot goes on underneath it.. making it much more work to get it all off and apply something else.

Now for the handle, THAT is much more work than wiping it with an oiled cloth after every tenth paddle outing, or once every two months or so..

just my 3 cts.

;D


Jan