paddle suggestions

[jerrodj89]

Looking to buy a new paddle for class 4 paddling prefer wood with carbon blade any help would be appreciated

[ian123]

I m partial to Echo paddles. Nice custom paddles for a fair price. Tune-ups are also inexpensive.

[sbroam]

Fritz Orr is having a sale - http://fritzorrcanoe.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; You can call him up and spec out what you want.

[pblanc]

Many people seem to like the Mitchell Premier. It is available with a wooden shaft and a carbon fiber covered wood core blade. They have been quite tough in the experience of most and Mitchell offers good customer support to those who need to have their paddle repaired.

[GSG]

So far I've tried a Werner bandit, aquabound edge, saltwood vitamin c, h20 c1 and a Mitchell premier. H20 takes a serious beating but as far as feel goes I'm in love with the Mitchell.

[milkman]

I agree with GSG about the H2O being able to take a serious beating. My wife has been using hers now for at least two years and it shows little wear. On this forum I sound like a broken record, but I like the FoxWorx Whitewater 3. Very tough paddle with thick wood shaft and thick carbon fiber curved blade. It's a bit on the big and clunky side, so best for someone with big hands. And it's heavy. It's also relatively cheap--just $150. I particularly like the blade shape. It seems to put out a lot of power in the early part of the stroke. Before the FoxWorx, I used Galasport, Werner and Mitchell carbon-fiber paddles.

[clt_capt]

I am definitely partial to the Mitchell Premier. It is offered in a variety of configurations - Wood Shaft/ Glass covered Wood Blade, Carbon Shaft/Glass covered Wood Blade, Carbon shaft/Carbon covered Wood Blade.

All have roped edges and aluminum tip.

[Riverken]

You have a nice range of choices.

I have experience with several, and at the moment I own a Fox, a Mitchell, a Werner, and a Saltwood. All of those listed below will serve you well. In order of price:

I like the Fox Whitewater 3 for price and durability. I don't know of a less expensive spoon blade. It's heavy and not as fast as the higher priced paddles, but it can take it. Not a racing paddle, but certainly a creeking paddle. I had one that was very worn, but still quite functional, after 125 trips. Also, even though it has a pronounced spine, I have not found it to flutter on underwater recoveries.

The Werner paddles are lighter and stand up very well. They have no wood in them, though, so they don't meet your criteria.

I just bought a Saltwood Vitamin C, haven't used it yet, but it has a sweet balance to it and it looks elegant (if that matters). It's light and I don't think I'll use it for rock bashing.

Everybody likes Mitchell and Echo, but they cost more. Whether a Mitchell Premier, for example, is worth roughly $100 more than a Fox Whitewater 3 is a judgement call for the individual. I solved the riddle by buying one of each!

Keep in mind that your chances of losing a paddle are directly proportionate to how much you paid for it.

[ian123]

I have an H2O paddle for C1. It's light and the blade doesn't wear but it doesn't inspired a lot of confidence otherwise. Skinny shaft and I ve seen way to many H2O kayak paddles break for no reason.

[GSG]

Riverken,

Be very careful with that Vitamin C. I personally don't think they went thick enough with the tip, they wear down pretty quick. I compared it next to a Bandit, quite a bit thinner.

[Larry Horne]

I've had a quite few nice carbon paddles and broke every one. For me (20+ year veteran hack) the h2o team c1 is by far the best. It's tough, light, feels just fine in the water, and it just makes me smile when i dig full power in to a rock with it.. it just quitely flexes and slides off without a care. Much like a plastic hull does compared to a glass one.

If I was a skilled racer.. I might appreciate the finer qualities and have a different story..

The problem with h2o was (is?) the blade was glued on by unskilled or uncaring assemblers. I had to reglue both of mine shortly after I bought them..never had a problem after I did that.

[GSG]

I'm assuming the glue issue has been resolved with the h20. I've been abusing mine for a year and it's still in one piece.

[sbroam]

...
Keep in mind that your chances of losing a paddle are directly proportionate to how much you paid for it.

This is a sad truth...

Also, I've used the H2O Team C-1 (a shop paddle) a number of times - looks weird, but paddles good. I don't like the location of the bend and would probably go with the straight shaft if I got one.

[DougB]

If you're looking at a carbon covered blade, consider ordering with dynel rather than aluminum tip. The carbon seems to have an issue adhereing to aluminum. I've had 4 different configurations of carbon covered blades with aluminum tips and all have delaminated either partially or in the case of one Premier, completely. While I miss the rock gripping bite of an aluminum tip, the dynel wears pretty good and evenly, doesn't delaminate and can still be replaced. I love my full carbon premeir (tip holding well with regular maintenance) but my vote goes out to Echo as well for the customizable factor and the great tune up service.

One of my friends uses the H20. You can make the blade bend just by looking at it. Makes a white aquabound look stiff. Way too much flex for me but others seem to dig it.

[sbroam]

+1 on the dynel - I had similar experience with aluminum in two carbon faced paddles (Climax/Maxwell Johnston) that when I had refinished (Walt, Polar Paddles), I had them replace the dynel with aluminum. Much happier. Vince Zappia could/should chime in here as he is making paddles with aluminum tips and is reporting no problems so maybe not all aluminum or construction is created equally.

All the same, when I placed my order for a Fritz Orr paddle I spec'd dynel for the tip, edges and a sleeve on the shaft. It will be a month before I can give a first impression, though - i'ts going to be a long month :-S