shorten my paddle

[rab]

So I purchased a Werner Natahala paddle last year. I decided that it was too long for my liking. Paddled again on the weekend and confirmed that I'd like to try and shorten it.

Anyone know if this can be done? I'd like to cut the paddle and try and reinsert the grip, or purchase a new grip and secure it to the shaft.

Anyone tried this before, or know where I can get another grip that might fit?

thanks

rab

[Paddle Power]

you could contact Werner and/or try searching the forum

search.php?keywords=%2Bshorten+%2Bpaddl ... mit=Search" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[ezwater]

Difficulty might depend on how much you want to shorten it.

If you make a guess on how far down inside the shaft the grip plug extends, you can saw through the shaft at that point. Then clean the shaft remains off the grip plug, make further decisions about shortening, and glue the plug back into the shorter shaft.

Remember that in the midst of their racing careers, Jon Lugbill and Davey Hearn, both kinda short guys, were using 59" slalom paddles. I'm way, way taller and use 61" slalom paddles, in both c-1 and OC-1. Are you sure you are shortening your Werner for the right reasons? Proper cab-forward technique may not work with too short a stick.

[yarnellboat]

Being generous, I'm 5'10". I've been moving from 58" towards 56" paddles, shorter C-1. I find the longer paddles are a bit of drag for cross-forward strokes and in low water.

I've cut my shafts using a pipe cutter, so you can cut up where the grip insert is too. To clean the old shaft off the freed grip, you can try with heat, or I've had to use the pipe cutter to cut thin rings, which I pop off with a screwdriver/chisel.

Pat.

[GSG]

When I started paddling I was constantly switching back and forth between a 54" and a 56". The 56" was awkward for cross strokes but I loved the power and leverage. On the other hand the 54" was easy to manuever but strokes felt weak and ineffective. I eventually forced myself to try each one for several trips in a row. What I found was that I eventualy got over the awkwardness of the 56" but the 54" never stopped feeling too short.

Just saying... I have no actual useful information on shortening a paddle

[sbroam]

I, too have gone between shorter and longer, mostly shorter. Thing is, no matter how long they are to begin with, they all get shorter - even without my intervention

[pblanc]

I have used ezwater's method to shorten paddles, bonding the T grip back in with epoxy. This typically requires that you shorten the paddle at least 2 inches.

I too have been moving toward shorter paddles. I am around 5' 11'' and used 58" long paddles for years. But my left shoulder has been bothering me when I do cross-strokes on the left side of the boat. A 56" paddle keeps my grip hand shoulder a bit lower and seems not to bother my shoulder as much and I am considering cutting a 58" paddle down to 55".

Today's short, polyethylene boats spin so readily it seems to me that the leverage of a longer paddle is not really necessary and with a 56" paddle I can plant the blade closer to the front stem than I ever could have with a 60+" paddle in a 13 foot boat.

[TonyB]

As long as you can get the old t grip out, you can always put another in. I've seen people do that just so they can have a wood T grip.

[ezwater]

I don't think it is the "leverage" of a longer paddle, but rather the vectors, the geometry of cab forward paddling. But in the end, it comes down to what feels right. With my long torso, if I drop much below 61" at all, the whole business just feels wrong. Going longer by a bit is tolerable, going shorter is not. Granted, I am an extreme example. If you see me using my 61" paddles, in c-1 or OC-1, I think the overall geometry will look right to you.

[Riverken]

1. To get the T grip out, try heating it with a heat gun or else put it in a plastic bag, seal it and boil it for maybe ten minutes. They usually come out and you can re-use them. But not always, unfortunately. If it won't come out, then you have to cut below it and might end up with too short a paddle. And you have to make a new T grip, or call Werner and see whether they will sell you one. If you make a new T grip you can add length to the paddle by using a long T grip.

2. Once the T grip is out you can cut the shaft down with a jig saw or a hack saw, making as straight a cut as possible. Sand the sharp edge you have left if necessary.

3. Glue the T grip back in. I use binary epoxy to make sure it won't ever come out, and presumably you won't want to shorten it again so you don't care if it ever comes out again.

4. You can make a new T grip plug out of a dowel from a hardware store or lumber yard. The actual T of the T grip you'll probably be able to salvage from the old one.

[rab]

Thanks for the suggestions folks. I'll try to modify it and let you know how it goes. Hopefully I don't make it too short.

rab

[yarnellboat]

If you cut it too short, you can just take up C-1ing! P.

[Walsh]

For what it's worth, I've found the epoxy used by Werner to be a great deal stronger and more heat-resistant than their new plastic t-grips. I haven't gotten one out intact.

[ezwater]

Yarnellboat:"If you cut it too short, you can just take up C-1ing!"

It has surprised me that my 61" slalom paddles feel right, whether I'm paddling c-1 on a 6" seat or OC-1 on a 10" seat.

Could suggest that I'm doing something wrong, but it feels so right!

[hazardharry]

i do mine like this. http://youtu.be/c_WaJ4Wssyo" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;