Major Royalex repair question
Moderators: kenneth, sbroam, TheKrikkitWars, Mike W., Sir Adam, KNeal, PAC, adamin
Major Royalex repair question
I had some bad soft spots due to delamination in my ww canoe, one of which tore open into the foam core. I have removed most of the loose outer layer in this spot and cleaned away the degraded foam underneath. The hole is about 4"x6" and is at the chine of the boat. I plan on putting a glass patch over it, but basically all that is left in the hole is the inner abs and vinyl layers with a very thin layer of good foam on top of this. Should i just glass the inside and out at this spot or try to bring it up to the same level as the surrounding level with some putty or another piece of Royalex? I tried to heat a piece of royalex to make it comform to the curves I need for the hole with a heat gun and all I did was make it fit worse. Is there a better way to form the patch of royalex? Also, I plan on putting a few layers of glass over this repair and have read that you start with your largest piece of glass first and then put smaller pieces on next. Is this true? It seems the opposite of what I was thinking. Cost is a consideration for materials and I realize the repair will never take the abuse the original material did. This will be a high water run boat only. A premature thanks goes out to you guys!
- yarnellboat
- C Maven
- Posts: 1331
- Joined: Wed Apr 06, 2005 8:54 pm
- Location: Winnipeg
- Contact:
Mark,
I'm sure you'll get better advice than from me, but I wanted to "bump" this because I'm interested....
What I'd do is clean it up as you've done; fill the hole with 3M 3532 (?) urethane adhesive (it seems to be a better flex than harder epoxies); and then glass it inside and out, starting with a kevlar layer, and finishing with glass cloth.
P.
I'm sure you'll get better advice than from me, but I wanted to "bump" this because I'm interested....
What I'd do is clean it up as you've done; fill the hole with 3M 3532 (?) urethane adhesive (it seems to be a better flex than harder epoxies); and then glass it inside and out, starting with a kevlar layer, and finishing with glass cloth.
P.
-
- CBoats Addict
- Posts: 545
- Joined: Tue Mar 29, 2005 9:38 pm
- Location: Long Island, NY
You might want to check out the following thread: http://cboats.net/cforum/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=. Also, IMO Dixie boater comes across as very knowledgeable about ABS repair methods. You might want to send him a private message asking for specific advice.
John
John
I'm usually the one who says lay down concentric patches, largest first and so on down. But the advice comes straight from Charlie Walbridge's Boatbuilder's Manual.
If you think about it, laying down the smallest patch first would mean that you have hidden transition zones, resin pockets, possibly even air bubbles, at the periphery of each patch under the larger patch above it. It is better to have the transitions OUTSIDE where you can see than each layer is properly wet to the edge, and where you can feather the edge by sanding if you are so inclined.
Also, if you layer with the smallest, on up to the largest, in some cases the edge of a patch may lie against the edge of the break. If you lay the largest patch first, the cloth crosses the broken layers of what you are repairing, and tends to bind them together.
If you think about it, laying down the smallest patch first would mean that you have hidden transition zones, resin pockets, possibly even air bubbles, at the periphery of each patch under the larger patch above it. It is better to have the transitions OUTSIDE where you can see than each layer is properly wet to the edge, and where you can feather the edge by sanding if you are so inclined.
Also, if you layer with the smallest, on up to the largest, in some cases the edge of a patch may lie against the edge of the break. If you lay the largest patch first, the cloth crosses the broken layers of what you are repairing, and tends to bind them together.