How do I get the paint off of a Kevlar boat?

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Mike W.
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How do I get the paint off of a Kevlar boat?

Post by Mike W. »

I bought an old canoe yesterday & the previous owner painted it. Some is pealing & I hope that trend continues. If it doesn't, how do I get the rest of the paint off. Some places are pretty thick. I took acetone to the model plate today, but that'll take WAY too much time & acetone to do the whole boat.

Also, where can I find a sliding seat & rails? I need the type with the narrow track. Neither Wenonah, nor J & J show them on their web-sites.
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Post by ezwater »

There's a chance that the outer layer is glass rather than Kevlar. Do you see any fuzzy fibers scuffed out of wear areas? That would be Kevlar. Glass wears smooth.

You also need to know which resin was used, polyester (unlikely but possible in an old boat), vinylester, or epoxy. That might affect what paint removers can be safely used.
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Post by kaz »

Hi Mike,
Crozier or Diller will gladly sell you a sliding seat kit.
JK
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Post by sbroam »

Or make one like this
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Post by jscottl67 »

Hmmm...I think a quick trip down the Haw at current water levels should take care of most of the paint for you ;)
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Post by Mike W. »

ezwater, The boat is a Wenonah C1W. I doubt there's any glass in it. I have no idea which resin they used.

Kaz, Thanks, Savage River's most narrow rails are 9.5". This frame is set up for 6" centers. I can't find Crozier on the web. Looks like some glass work in my near future.

sbroam, This boat is set up to have the sliding seat frame glassed to the bottom of the hull. The rails are on 6" centers. It's got rounded aluminum gunwales that I probably wouldn't trust to hold me :oops:

jscott, I'll pass on the Haw at this level. As soon as I get a seat it'll spend a lot of time on the Roanoke though :D

Looks like it's gonna be hard to paddle, but it should be fairly fast if I can keep it upright :lol:
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Post by sbroam »

Mike W. wrote: sbroam, This boat is set up to have the sliding seat frame glassed to the bottom of the hull. The rails are on 6" centers. It's got rounded aluminum gunwales that I probably wouldn't trust to hold me :oops:
Foam sitting pedestal? Make the base big enough and friction will hold it in?
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Mike W.
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Post by Mike W. »

Ya know, that could work. But John Diller just e-mailed me. He'll make the carbon :P bucket seat with the rails on 6" centers. Think I'm going with that. With the narrow rails I should be able to sit for the flats & kneel in the fun stuff :D
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remove paint from kevlar...

Post by cc »

DO NOT USE A PAINT STRIPPER of any kind. Understand resin is nothing more than a expanded chemical formula of paint (epoxy primer vs epoxy resin ) Differences are evident to those who want to correct me on this example. But for simplicity, relate the paint and resin. If it eats paint it will eat the resin system wether it be styrene based or epoxy based. Further more it will eat you too!

So start sanding with a sanding block by hand with 120 grit paper and work up to 220 grit. You can use a orbital sander but, kevlar will hold the heat, from the friction of sanding so keep moving around the surface, don't concentrate on a location.

Kevlar fuzzy's....wet them with epoxy and let cure and try to shave them with a razor blade or fill over them with mico balloons and cabosil mixed with epoxy resin. This formula makes a paste when blended together. Feather out the paste to the hull of the boat, and prime with epoxy primers.

NOTE: all this sanding and resin and additives....where a decent respirator and nitrle gloves. In a well ventulated room. Remeber resin won't really cure unless it is over 20 degrees C ( its a CDN thing) and if you can get the hull up to temperture for 12-15hrs constantly during the cure next summers heat will have little to no effect on your repair.

All in all take your time rushing will cause a disaster.

C.C.
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How bout blasting...

Post by creek1r »

With a plastic or walnut shell medium instead of sand? Check with high-tech body shops or hotrod shops.
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Mike W.
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Post by Mike W. »

The seat is being made :D

cc, thanks for the reminder on solvents :oops:

creek1r, that's a good idea w/ the blasting 8)

I think I'll peel off what paint that I can, then take the water hose to it. What's left I'll either sand, check w/ a good body shop about some type of media blasting, or just go paddle it.
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Post by PAC »

Industrial High Pressurer H20 Washer 6.5 HP+ :-)
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Yep a power washer might just do it

Post by Jim P »

With the right tip and distance from the surface. Start with a bigger fan and work your way down. Be carefull you can etch concrete with a zero degree tip! Better than writing your name in the snow - do it in the sidewalk :o

Got a 13 HP if your in the DC area.
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Post by KNeal »

Got a 13 HP if your in the DC area.
:lol:

Hey Mike! You wanna drive up tomorrow (Friday) in the afternoon to get it?

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

KNeal :wink:
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Post by Mike W. »

PAC wrote:Industrial High Pressurer H20 Washer 6.5 HP+ :-)
I finally find a boat for downriver racing & y'all want me to blow holes in it :-? Y'all just don't want me to paddle this boat do ya? Well, sorry KNeal, tomorrow night I'm doing stuff w/ the kids.

I think I'll load the Sith & go surf for a while at Weldon now :D
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