I have removed the mohawk saddle from my probe 12 in order to cut an inch off of the bottom to lower the saddle. the problem I have is the foot peg mounting screw holes will be an inch lower in the front when I do this. I can trim off an inch and that will put the bottom of the mounting bracket only an inch off the floor instead of two inches. This will make the mounting brackets an inch higher in the back instead of level. Should I lower the front footpeg holes also? Is there a rod that goes all the way through the saddle that the front screws screw into that I will have to redrill or does it only go an inch or so deep into the side of the saddle? in other words how hard is it to lower the front mounting brackets for the footpegs?
Every one I've ever seen goes all the way through so I'm gonna venture a guess that the Mohawk will too. If you used the footpegs, I would raise it all up (assuming the pegs were comfy at their prior height).
Mohawk uses a piece of tapped aluminum. Goes all the way through. Take the front and back screws out of one side, pull the whole deal out, put it back in where you want it.
I am no expert but have dealt with the same type problem. I solved mine by drilling a couple of holes in the current foot rest paddles ( I assume they are Yakima) & pop riviting a piece of hard plastic ( I used samples of formica counter top material I picked up at Lowes for free) to the foot rest. I then glued a piece of very dense minicell on the formica for comfort. No need to change the current hole setting in the saddle. By doing it this way you can change the height of the foot rest as opposed to redrilling through the saddle to raise them. I hope this helps.
David suggested to shave the saddle also, but the saddle is curved and fitted, and it would be very tough to take that shape all down an inch. It was just easier to remove it and shave it off of the bottom. I am now glueing the saddle back in. Thanks for the help guys!
I would make an effort to raise the rear portion of the saddle which connects to the thwart. When I removed the metal tube that connects the thwart to the saddle, I definitely lost some of the strength of the saddle. It didn't feel as responsive, and the glue on the saddle failed after a season.
Thanks Shep, I am putting the tube back down in there, and connecting it to the thwart, but the saddle will lack one inch of course coming to the top of the thwart. Maybe I can put in a spacer to take up the slack or what do you guys suggest?
I took a one inch piece and added it to the top which wedged the saddle back tight with the thwart. I deffinately made the saddle much more stable. I see what you mean . Thanks.
