Ok, this is probably a dumb question, but here I go. I've got a couple of Werner Bandit carbon canoe paddles that are about worn out. I'm right handed so they're especially worn on the inside. I'd say about 10-15% of the blade is worn off. They're still usable, but don't have enough bite. Is it possible/practical to restore it to its original blade size with glass cloth and resin or something like that? I'm sure it would add extra weight, but that might be ok. Also, when I buy a new one, should I put a bead of g-flex or something like that along the edge to slow down the wear?
Much obliged,
Spence
paddle repair questions
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roaring-riverman
- C Boater
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 12:02 am
- Location: Gainesboro TN
Carefully saw each paddle straight down the middle from grip to blade tip. Glue together the two "better" halves. It will be hard to extend the worn blades. To have a better chance of success, you would need to use S-glass or carbon. It would be better to use a compression mold, like that used when Werner made the paddles. You would need substantial stepped overlap where the new cloth joins the old, and obviously the new cloth should go on both sides.
Are these curved blades? I guess they must be, or you would have even wear from random power face employment.
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RodeoClown
- BlackFly Canoes
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I did this to a paddle I was going to turn into a breakdown (never got around to putting it back together, so I can't attest to the long term result, but it looked good).
1: Get a piece of ~1" thick minicel. you'll be using this as the 'mold'. You'll want to hot glue it to the power face of the paddle so that it extends beyond the tip, and beyond the area that you want to add back on. The idea to to have something that approximates the contour of the part of the paddle you've worn off. You'll also want to cover the part that you'll be laying up the fiberglass on with packing tape, so you'll be able to remove the foam later- better to do this before glueing it on.
2: Theoretically, you'll want to sand the paddle blade where you'll be laying up the fiberglass, but you've probably been doing that on the river (hence the need for repair). You can probably just get away with cleaning it with acetone.
3: cut pieces of fiberglass to fit around the edge of the blade tip, enough to build it up to the existing blade. These will be the part you add back on. Additionally, cut some (maybe 3?) that will extend up the blade a couple inches. Stagger these so that there's about half an inch difference in length between them. s-glass wouldn't be a bad idea.
4: Layup it up with some good epoxy. Start with the layers you're adding beyond the tip, then the biggest piece that goes onto the blade, working smaller. a layer of peelply will make it look nice
5: Once that cures, pull off the foam, sand the other side of blade and what you just added, and do a few layers covering the new glass and the blade on the powerface.
6: trim to the desired size/shape.
1: Get a piece of ~1" thick minicel. you'll be using this as the 'mold'. You'll want to hot glue it to the power face of the paddle so that it extends beyond the tip, and beyond the area that you want to add back on. The idea to to have something that approximates the contour of the part of the paddle you've worn off. You'll also want to cover the part that you'll be laying up the fiberglass on with packing tape, so you'll be able to remove the foam later- better to do this before glueing it on.
2: Theoretically, you'll want to sand the paddle blade where you'll be laying up the fiberglass, but you've probably been doing that on the river (hence the need for repair). You can probably just get away with cleaning it with acetone.
3: cut pieces of fiberglass to fit around the edge of the blade tip, enough to build it up to the existing blade. These will be the part you add back on. Additionally, cut some (maybe 3?) that will extend up the blade a couple inches. Stagger these so that there's about half an inch difference in length between them. s-glass wouldn't be a bad idea.
4: Layup it up with some good epoxy. Start with the layers you're adding beyond the tip, then the biggest piece that goes onto the blade, working smaller. a layer of peelply will make it look nice
5: Once that cures, pull off the foam, sand the other side of blade and what you just added, and do a few layers covering the new glass and the blade on the powerface.
6: trim to the desired size/shape.
There are some pictures on www.paddlesportsrepairs.com of a repaired Werner Bandit.
Someone suggested car door edge guard for Bandits. It's just the basic U channel stuff available at any auto parts store. I've been using it for a couple of years with no complaints. You need to go up the sides about 5 or 6 inches too or it won't stay. You'll have to replace it every now and then due to wear.
It AIN'T bent.
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roaring-riverman
- C Boater
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- Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 12:02 am
- Location: Gainesboro TN
Thanks!
I looked at Jamie Dors's site and that looks like the best way to go. I'll email him some photos to see what he thinks. This is good news! Much obliged.
Actually I got the idea from a guy who paddles the Yough. Yes, the catch potential is there. But for playing around, surfing, attaining, etc where it's nice to be able to pound a paddle without remorse, I don't mind it. I paddle a longer boat so having a full-sized spare at the ready isn't an issue.milkman wrote:I found the car edge guard to be a BAD idea. And I'm the one who suggested it (having seen another paddler do it). On rocky runs the edge can catch on rocks. I have flipped several times because of this and ended up chiseling off the edge guard.
It AIN'T bent.