I recently purchased an Aquabound Edge paddle (glass, not carbon) for C-1'ing--and so far I've really enjoyed it, considering how relatively inexpensive it was. However, I'm not a big fan of the plastic T-grip and would like to replace it with the big wooden dowel type.
Anyone have experience yanking those things out? Should I heat it first?
Thanks!
replacing Aquabound t-grip?
Moderators: kenneth, sbroam, TheKrikkitWars, Mike W., Sir Adam, KNeal, PAC, adamin
I think the t-grips are epoxied into the glass shafts. Twisting and pulling on the t-grip won't help maintain the strength of the glass laminate of the shaft. Avoid applying stress to the joint so your paddle will deliver when you need it most.
Simply cut the plastic t-grip off flush with the top of the shaft. Glue the replacement wooden t-grip into the shaft using a high quality epoxy resin mix.
Simply cut the plastic t-grip off flush with the top of the shaft. Glue the replacement wooden t-grip into the shaft using a high quality epoxy resin mix.
I've been thinking the same thing, I bought one recently, it's a little flimsy.
I suppose you could always drill out the core once you cut if off, that way you might have more surface area to epoxy to w/ the new T-grip extending down into the bored out shaft... not sure if that's a dumb idea, but I'll probably do that right after ...I buy a C1, re-outfit my OC, put wood gunnels on the Nitro.. and - oh yes - buy a Taureau. -sigh-
I suppose you could always drill out the core once you cut if off, that way you might have more surface area to epoxy to w/ the new T-grip extending down into the bored out shaft... not sure if that's a dumb idea, but I'll probably do that right after ...I buy a C1, re-outfit my OC, put wood gunnels on the Nitro.. and - oh yes - buy a Taureau. -sigh-
Once the grip is cut off flush with the top of paddle shaft, some reaming with a sandpaper-covered dowel should remove the grip stub remaining inside the shaft. Any rounded cutting tool will probably work as well.
This will also rough up the inside of the shaft to assure a good bond with the new t-grip. You want to expose some glass fibers inside the shaft. Trying to glue to existing resin is futile.
Of course the problem of paddle balance will have to be addressed when fitting the new grip. I suspect the wooden grip will be heavier than the injection-molded plastic grip that was inserted by the manufacturer.
This will also rough up the inside of the shaft to assure a good bond with the new t-grip. You want to expose some glass fibers inside the shaft. Trying to glue to existing resin is futile.
Of course the problem of paddle balance will have to be addressed when fitting the new grip. I suspect the wooden grip will be heavier than the injection-molded plastic grip that was inserted by the manufacturer.
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I disagree with you here, msims, the Aquabound T grip is definitely NOT flimsy. I have several Aquabound paddles and I never had any problems with the strength of their t-grip, however I had the wooden dowel T-grip on my Werner Bandit break twice before I finally replaced it with something more sturdy. The Aquabound T-grip is a one piece moulded piece, which makes it inherently very strong. I highly doubt that a glued on or glued in wooden dowel would any stronger than the Aquabound T-grip.
I personally find the shape of their T-grip very comfortable and easy on my hand, hy T-grip hand tends to cramp up less after a day of paddling than if I use a paddle with a staight dowel style T-grtp, but that is just personal preference, I guess.
martin
PS: so msims, how are those wooden gunnels on the Nitro you are always tanking about coming along ?
I personally find the shape of their T-grip very comfortable and easy on my hand, hy T-grip hand tends to cramp up less after a day of paddling than if I use a paddle with a staight dowel style T-grtp, but that is just personal preference, I guess.
martin
PS: so msims, how are those wooden gunnels on the Nitro you are always tanking about coming along ?
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