c1 release buckles

[Creeker]

2 part question about a release system.

where do you get the release airline type buckles for c1 so you can create a double pull handle.

is there a different buckle you would consider?


Now move this over to how I should set up a new c1'er like my 10 year old daughter in her Jackson 1.5. She has been working on only a foam saddle to this point with nothing holding her knees down and loving it on flat.

[Creeker]

thinking about just using velcro on straps too....but what?/where? to buy.

[sbroam]

You can buy velcro at Lowes (building supply) or a sewing supply shop - have a shoe repair shop stitch some to seat belt or 2" tubular webbing. [Yes, 2" tubular is over kill, but it works well in ladder locks. Yes, seatbelt strap works fine after it gets old/dirty and stiffens up a little, before then, too slick.]

There is a thread around here somewhere about where to get "Real" airplane seat belt buckles.

I'd consider a snap shackle set up - I kept my simple and a year or so later am still quite pleased.

[TNbound]

I think for a kid I'd go with a very minimal bulkhead. No need for it to come way up their legs, just enough to hold the knees down and out to the sides. Takes a step out of swimming, too.

[Pierre LaPaddelle]

I've had good luck dealing with SEATBELT PLANET for stainless steel aircraft buckles. They ship to Canada, so a G D Yankee should have no trouble!

http://www.seatbeltplanet.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

For C-1 use, I fasten the tongue straps under the cockpit rim, by my hips. Straps with the buckles are fastened to the center rail, between my thighs, close to the front of the pedestal seat. Downward pulls on the buckle straps tightens them.

I drill holes in the buckle release-flaps, and link them together with accessory cord. For OC-1s, one pull on the cord releases both buckles. For C-1s, I fasten a short strap, with velcro (hooks) sewn on the top-side of the strap, to the cord. The strap runs out under the skirt in front, and fastens to velcro (loops) sewn onto the underside of the skirt pull-strap. One pull on the skirt strap pops the skirt AND the buckles.

Sounds complicated? PM me for pix, if you're interested.

Rick

[sbroam]

I think for a kid I'd go with a very minimal bulkhead. No need for it to come way up their legs, just enough to hold the knees down and out to the sides. Takes a step out of swimming, too.

Despite what I said, +1

[Creeker]

thanks!

[Smurfwarrior]

Scuba Weight belt buckles are my choice. They come in either heavy duty plastic or metal. I've used both and they work very well.

[hankrankin]

Scuba Weight belt buckles are my choice. They come in either heavy duty plastic or metal. I've used both and they work very well.

Agreed. I have scuba release buckles on two of my c1's. Gonna get more of them for the rest of my boats. I just happened to randomly stumble across the two I have but I've also looked online and they're usually around 4-10 dollars. I find stainless steel buckles last longer than plastic. (I broke three plastic quick side releases in one day once, they were not scuba grade plastic tho)

[TheKrikkitWars]

It's gotta be a good quality snapshackle, with a one-pull relase strap going up and under the deck... nothing else comes close in terms of the ease or reliablity of release; though a spot welded ring on the release pin is essential.

I've settled on these ones from holt.

The disadvantage of snap-shackles is that you have to get a bit crafty and either sew loops of tape with d-rings in to bolt to snowboard bindings, or sew a ladderlock (or two tri-glide) buckles into the webbing and put a d-ring on the end if using webbing straps... it's easier than it sounds mind, you've just gotta bar-tack it on a sewing machine with thick polyester or nylon thread (absolutely never cotton thread)

[TonyB]

Ive got a set of velcro straps from an old c1, two straps, sewn loop on oneside you would have to put on a Dring of some sort outside attatchment. then to a d ring on inside of leg and velcro back to itself.

[PAC]

For a youth - minimal bulk head or vecro would be my thoughts. Bulk head can be built out as they get big, better and stronger.

If Tony B's straps are from Barney (name of an old boat) that would be a good choice too. They are wide so they can go lower on leg and older so the will velcro in place but not so much that a 10 yo can get out of them with a light tug or little bit of squirming.

Safety (and limited getting freaking out) factor would be the key! Make sure you update us with photos of the outfitting and more importantly her using the set up!

[jharris]

I use the same style buckles that life jacket quick release rescue belts use. 2" buckles, with 2" flat (seatbelt style) webbing. Because they bite into the webbing instead of having 2 halves of a buckle, adjustments are simplified by just running the webbing more or less far through the buckle each time I get in the boat instead of needing a separate triglide/some other piece of hardware to adjust the length of the strap.

The other bonus is that, like a life jacket quick release, you can grab anywhere on the loose end of the strap and pull up instead of needing to get at the buckle itself. Not being able to do anything to the other side to release-- you need the loose strap or the buckle itself which are accessible from the same side-- is a disadvantage, but I think airplane buckles share that issue. However once pulled, the smooth webbing which has no hardware on it leaves the buckle quickly and without much resistance, and it's unlikely to catch on clothing/feet compared to the male end of a airplane seatbelt buckle.

I've never once pulled a quick release to get out of my boat when it mattered. Even when I ran a seatbelt (never doing that again anyways!) I could scoot my way out with little trouble quicker than grabbing a release.
So I'd probably go for the bulkhead as well... for the ultimate safe outfitting, something you'd want to put a kid in, design it so you'd never expect to need any quick release, "knowing" your quick release will work and is easy to find is still not as safe as not needing one. I prefer straps to a bulkhead cause in new england, clothing means boat fit changes hugely from season to season, but I still make sure I can get out without opening any straps AND put quick releases just in case.


EDIT: turns out I'm talking about scuba dive weight buckles, as a few people already mentioned. I got mine from REI, they had 2 versions (both plastic) one $1.50 the other $3.
The cheaper ones have an edge/blade looking thing that bites into the webbing which I found holds WAY more securely and doesn't slide even when playboating putting a lot of stress on the straps. I use those. The (slightly) expensive ones have a strip of textured surface a couple mm wide that bites into the webbing, and I'm guessing this is better for the webbing... but I've never had any problems with wear on my straps using either buckle. It might let you run thicker straps though, like the kind roof rack straps are made of which isn't woven as closely/smoothly as the seatbelt-style webbing. The second kind is easier to release, but barely.

[Jim Michaud]

I never liked the plastic cam buckles until I switched to polyester 10K webbing from Strapworks.com. The cam buckles hold extremely well with the thicker webbing. I'm now in the process of replacing my airline buckles and Velcro fasteners with the thicker webbing and plastic cam buckles. But before I do all of my boats I would like to check out how it works out when the air temperature is in the 20s.

[Pierre LaPaddelle]

I use the same style buckles that life jacket quick release rescue belts use. . . you can grab anywhere on the loose end of the strap and pull up instead of needing to get at the buckle itself. . . and it's unlikely to catch on clothing/feet compared to the male end of a airplane seatbelt buckle. . .

FWIW, I agree with your logic, and originally made wide use of plastic buckles like you describe. However, I found they deteriorated in the elements, and blew apart in tense moments.

Hence my decision to go to more-expensive SS aircraft buckles. I've never caught equipment or footwear on the male ends. And you don't need separate triglide tighteners -- the tighteners are built into the buckles.

Rick